The Food Film Fest Short Report

The Food Film Fest Short Report


Yesterday I attended the first day of Food Film Fest 2009. What started as a dreary, wet, miserable trip to the Action Center at Battery Park ended up as a full, enlightening, insightful and tasty one.

I will not have time to get into too much details but just a few notes about the event. First, this event will repeat next Saturday April 18, 2009 at Columbia University Medical Center Office of Government and Community Affairs. It is a fantastic -and free- opportunity to see these movies which are not so easy to catch. Go and let know your friends about it.

I highly recommend :
Asparagus: Stalking the American Life; Flow; Hotbread Kitchen & the trailer for Fresh.
-The trailer for Flow is above. Follow this link for Asparagus: Stalking the American Life trailer.
You will sure think twice before buying bottled water or a bunch of asparagus after viewing these films.
-The documentary about Hot Bread Kitchen, the New York Social bakery that mixes tradition with social activism. What a great idea!
-And the trailer for
Fresh, a promising documentary partially based on Michael Polland The Omnivore’s Dilemma.

The day ended with a tasty reception. Unforgettable was “Jean-Louis” a New Jersey raw milk cow cheese named in memory of my Gascon fellow chef Jean-Louis Palladin. I am not kidding this cheese is the best I have tasted in the USA so far. You can experience “Jean-Louis” too, the Bobolink dairy & Bakeyard is at Union Square Farmers Market on Fridays, Lincoln Center Greenmarket (66th & Bwy) every Thurs & Sat. If you are not in New York City do not feel excluded shop on their online store (bread not available online). About their breads, the rye is outstanding and though I don’t like flavored bread, their garlic and duck fat loaf is a must with a bbq’d duck breast!

Another great product at the reception was the raw chocolate from Fine & Raw. I can’t wait to make my “Lapin au Chocolat” with it – I don’t mean chocolate Easter bunny, no! I mean rabbit stew in chocolate sauce (a kind of mole), but that will be another post.

Joyeuses Pâques!

Turmeric / Curcuma

Turmeric / Curcuma

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It looks like ginger and belongs to the ginger family. The photo above is a fresh piece of turmeric root or curcuma longa, originally a plant native to Southern Asia and today mostly cultivated in India, China, Indonesia, Jamaica & Haiti. Anglophone countries call it turmeric, while Latin derived languages call it Curcuma and if you want to find out what it is in Chinese or other languages click here.

The word curcuma comes from the arabic khourkoum كم كر; though J.Favre, in the 19th century Dictionaire Universel de la Cuisine et de l’Hygiène Alimentaire, tells us that it comes from the Sanskrit kunkuma. Vijaata-kuGkuma in Sanskrit means *bastard saffron*. Turmeric is often referred to as cheap saffron, faux safron, indian saffron. It is its bright yellow dying agent that associates it with real saffron, but taste-wise one cannot replace the other. The *real* saffron is the stigma of the flower crocus sativa and one of the most pricey spices on the market.

Turmeric doesn’t have the sharp bite ginger has. A must for curry of course, but can be used in many other recipes. I have used it in lentil stew, lamb stew etc. Today I made a simple miso soup.

Miso Turmeric Soup

1/4 cup of finely chopped onion
1 carrot also finely chopped
1 piece of fresh turmeric
1/2 cup of see kelp
2 Tbsp of Miso

Sauté onions, carrots and turmeric in a sauce pan coated with olive oil. Add water, let simmer for 20 minutes. Meanwhile rehydrate your sea kelp. Add the sea kelp when they have softened. Add miso at the end. Serve with brown rice and kimchee. This is a very restaurative dinner.

Turmeric is known to be a potent healing rhizome; it has anti-oxidant & anti-inflammatory properties that are used in alternative medicine. There is an entire book on the subject that I just discovered: Turmeric and the Healing Curcuminoids by Muhammed Majeed.

Tasty Fluffy Golden Pancakes

Tasty Fluffy Golden Pancakes

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When it comes to pancakes I am very picky. Most of the time I find them doughy & dry. Never fluffy or light enough to my taste. This morning I decided to put my mind into it and search though several recipes to come up with a version I would like. Voilà! there is it and tell me what you think:

Pancakes for 2
In bowl #1 mix:
2/3 cup of unbleached flour (germs restored)
1/3 cup of corn meal
2 tsp. Rumford baking powder

In bowl #2 beat together:
1 egg
1 cup of whole milk
2 Tbsp melted butter

Combine bowl #2 into bowl #1 with a fork and without over mixing. Warm up a skillet coated with butter and oil. Cook your pancake as usual and remember to add some butter and oil in between each batch. The bacon served –in the picture– is a smoked Polish bacon sold by the pound at my local Polish store. I like the maple syrup warmed up.
Bon breakfast!



Pork superbug

Pork superbug

Sadly this article doesn’t come as a surprise. How can animals living in CAFO (Concentrated Animal Feeding Operation) be healthy? CAFO meat might be *cheap* but on it’s real cost is very high.

Pork superbug documented
As evidence mounts of deadly bacteria from CAFO pigs, will the FDA and the USDA act?

Posted by Tom Philpott at 9:33 PM on 27 Jan 2009

Last June, Iowa State researcher Tara Smith delivered preliminary results of a study linking the deadly, antibiotic-resistant pathogen MRSA to pigs in concentrated animal feedlot operations. Despite mounting evidence of the link from Canada and Europe, U.S. public-health officials had never formally studied the issue, even though MRSA kills something close to 20,000 Americans every year — more than AIDS.

In a must-read blog post at the time, the Seattle Post-Intelligencer’s ace health reporter Andrew Schneider documents the craven inaction of the FDA and the USDA as this public-health menace gained force. (I weighed in here.) As Schneider wrote:

An effective way to say there isn’t a problem is never to look. That seems to be precisely what most U.S. government food-safety agencies are doing when it comes to determining whether the livestock in our food supply is contaminated with MRSA and if so, whether the often-fatal bacterium is being passed on to consumers who buy and consume that meat

Now Smith’s research has been published in a peer-reviewed journal. Examining CAFOs scattered in Iowa and Illinois, Smith and her team found the MRSA strain in 49 percent of pigs and 45 percent of the workers who tend them. The sample size is small; more study must be done. Will the government undertake it?

A real reckoning with the MRSA-CAFO link could deliver a devastating blow to the meat industry. To keep animals alive while stuffed together by the thousands, standing in their own collected waste, it’s evidently necessary to dose them with lots of antibiotics. CAFO conditions destroy animal’s immune systems; antibiotics pick up the slack. Take them away, and the CAFO model might crumble.

That, presumably, is why the Bush agencies so studiously ignored the problem. Let’s hope the Obama FDA and USDA do better.

Update [2009-1-28 8:40:10 by Tom Philpott]:The Seattle PI’s indispensable Schneider reacts to the publication of Smith’s findings:

So I called some disease detectives and food safety specialists in agencies responsible for ensuring that our food supply is safe. You could almost hear them cringe over the phone. And, no, to the best of their knowledge, neither the FDA, USDA nor CDC had launched systematic testing of the U.S. meat supply for MRSA. One physician said that a study was being done on the MRSA strain (ST398) that Smith had found on the pigs but added, “I don’t think it has anything to do with meat.”

La Blanquette d’Agneau

La Blanquette d’Agneau

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La Blanquette is a dish inscribed in the tradition of French “cuisine bourgeoise”. My mother, Renée Peyrafitte-Gallot makes a very good one and serves it for lunch over rice. The term blanquette comes from the word “blanc” or white. It is a stew in a white sauce that can be made either from veal or lamb. The same sauce can be used for poultry but then it would be a Fricassée. French historian Jean-Louis Flandrin dedicated a lecture to that dish and a book was published posthumously —I came across this reference through the excellent French food blog: ” Boire et Manger, quelle histoire ! “.
Enjoy the Blanquette!

Blanquette d’ Agneau
for 4 (this is a variation inspired by James Beard and my mother’s recipe)

2 ½ pounds of lamb shoulder cut into 2-inch cubes
1 onion “nailed” with 2 cloves (see pix below)

1 carrot
salt & pepper
1 sprig of thyme or better a bouquet garni
1 pound mushrooms
about 8 tablespoons of butter
lemon Juice
about 20 small white onions
4 tablespoons of flour
2 egg yolks
½ cup of heavy cream

Rub the meat with lemon. Place the meat cubes in a stewing pan with the onion stuck with the two cloves, add 1 teaspoon of salt, the bouquet garni and freshly ground pepper. Cover with cold water. When it comes to boil, reduce heat, put a lid on the pan and simmer gently until the meat is tender -about 1 hour to 1 1/2 hour. Skim the broth a few times.

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Meanwhile, cut up the mushrooms, sauté gently in butter, add a dash of lemon juice, cook until just tender and reserve. Peel the onions and cook them until barely done; they have to remain firm.
When the meat is tender, remove it to a hot platter and keep it warm. Let the broth from the meat reduce down to two cups over a brisk flame for 5 minutes and then strain it. Add the liquid from the onions and the juices from the mushrooms. If you do not have enough liquid, add some chicken or vegetable stock.
In a sauce pan melt 4 tablespoons of butter and blend in the flour (you are making a roux). Gradually stir in the stock, and continue stirring until the sauce is consistent. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Beat the egg yolks and mix them with the heavy cream. Add to the sauce and stir until heated through, but do not let boil or the egg will curdle. Add a dash of lemon juice, put in onions and mushrooms and pour the sauce over the meat.
Serve with steamed rice or rice pilaf.

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